Muang Ngoi Neua, Laos
Main Street, Muang Ngoi
We heard about Muang Ngoi while in Luang Prabang (tongue twister, anybody?) and decided to check it out. LP is a beautiful city, but it’s also something of a showpiece for tourism in Laos, and we wanted to get a little off the beaten path while we were here, so off we went.
From Luang Prabang, we took a minibus (packed, of course!) to Nong Khiaw, about 4 hours away. The ride was unbelievably bumpy, and as we wound our way upwards into the mountains, the weather turned grey and cloudy. By the time we arrived, thoroughly scrambled, it was starting to rain. A 3 block hike through mud streets got us to the boat dock, where we managed to buy tickets for the next run to Muang Ngoi. While we waited, we dug out our rain jackets and slurped down some noodle soup. In spite of the weather, though, we could tell we were in for something special- the Nam Ka river oozed between craggy rock formations covered with dense forest, and the clouds, moving incredibly low and fast through the valley, felt like the output of a giant humidifier, turning the sky into a roiling sea of mist. If there are dinosaurs left on earth, I thought, this is where they live.
dino-licious!
The boat takes about an hour, and by the time we arrived, it was late afternoon. We climbed the steep flight of stairs that lines the river bank, then set off down the main drag (one narrow, muddy street) looking for a place to drop our bags. We settled on a wooden bungalow with a huge window (actually more like a hinged section of the wall) overlooking terraced gardens and the river beyond. A well worn hammock bisected the room, and the pillows were downright fluffy. Still, the room was dark because the sky outside was dark, and the single bulb in our room would only be an option from 7-9 pm, when the village turns on its generators. We left our bags and went outside to check out the village and its poultry parade, which had been announcing itself quite grandly from all directions since (and, I suspect, before) we arrived.
View from our room...
quick-e-mart
We spent 2 days here, and B got some beautiful pictures. I kept hoping to see a dinosaur (what if they’ve just been hiding?!), but instead came across the biggest leaves I’ve ever seen, ferns that close when you touch them, a dog named omelet, and a delicious pumpkin curry. There are only a few travelers here at any given time, so we made some lovely friends from Belgium, New Zealand, Switzerland, and Canada.
This was very likely one of the most remote places this trip will take us, and it was startlingly poor and cut off. Still, there are more and more satellite dishes to be found here (if you only get 2 hours of electricity, you want the good channels, I guess), and we saw several villagers with a cell phone in one hand and a chicken in the other. It’s tempting to call this the place that time forgot, but it isn’t. The world is creeping in a little at a time, and I’m sure it won’t be the same place 20 years from now. For now, though, we made it all the way here, and saw a tiny slice of life that we won’t easily forget.
Like I said, Muang Ngoi isn’t quite a secret, but almost.
November 24th, 2009 at 6:57 am
Some great pictures. You are seeing places and things that most people only dream about. Maybe these people have the right idea a quieter more laid back life. Have a happy Thanksgiving. Miss and love you
November 24th, 2009 at 8:56 am
Amazing countryside, truly “Lost World” looking. Such descriptive commentary, and you’re right to appreciate technology creeping in. In twenty years a monorail will probably run through it.
Wonder how it’d look on a menu…Dog Omelette.
I learned about creating “my maps” on google, we’ll have to put some together when you get back.
Make sure your thanksgiving turkey just has 2 legs! And get me a picture of Ho Chi Mihn’s tomb, please.
November 24th, 2009 at 11:44 am
That’s funny you mention the place is very “dinosaur-y”– for some reason we sat through “Jurassic Park III” late last night and the places look very similar– fewer flying dinosaurs though I suspect.
Also thought it was interesting to learn of the amount of satellite dishes– reminds me of all the tiny towns in the states where people might not have much of anything but they sure have their tv! I’d be curious to learn what they’re watching– “Dancing with the Stars?”
Happy Vietnamese Thanksgiving!!
November 26th, 2009 at 2:28 am
I love the tree roots on the river bank. Also, it’s so nice to see pics of the two of you. With two of those giant leaves, Julia could do a fan dance! From your writing, it sounds like you’ve discovered a very dear place…one that you can revisit in your memories whenever you need a little escape.
November 30th, 2009 at 8:29 pm
I love the pictures so interesting, and so many beauiful ones. Imagine finding a village like that one.
November 30th, 2009 at 8:31 pm
I love the pictures and how interesting that village must have been. So many beautiful things, and that letter in Vietnam was funny. Gram
November 30th, 2009 at 8:32 pm
We’re testing this out – Grammie Barb and I
November 30th, 2009 at 9:03 pm
what a shnme, cant get my comments to go. Gram
December 1st, 2009 at 1:49 am
Hi Barb-
Your first comment needs to be approved (which we just did) then all your subsequent ones will go right through.
Sorry for the trouble!
Brian